Jennys' Tanks & Things
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Newbie Question - hope this is the right place!

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Post  iambrb on Sun Mar 15, 2009 3:48 am

For a bit now I have been posting my build of a Russian SU-100, boy, I sure hope that this is the right place for this! bear in mind that this is only my third build after almost as many years out of this than the board owner has been born!

So I always come here FIRST for inspiration from the incredible hi-talent and industry pros, and that brings me to my questions:
1 - for the SU-100, I have some of the type that came with the kit that you soak in water, but I also have some MIG Dry transfers as well. Can anyone offer tips for these things, as I have never used them beofre?

2 - What is decal Solvent stuff, and what effect does it have?

3 - Some of the kits here have rain rust streaks on them (like the Hetzer in the WIP) how do y'all do that?

4 - I think I want to do the dot filter technique here, but if I do, do I put on the decals before or after - before, right?

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Newbie Question - hope this is the right place! Empty Re: Newbie Question - hope this is the right place!

Post  Jenny Ryan on Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:19 am

Well 1 . For dry transfers cut the transfer from the sheet put some Tamiya tape on the outer face & position the transfer where you want to place it & secure with the tape , I use the pointy end of a mission model tool to burnish the transfer , transferring it from the carrier to the model but a soft pencil is just as good . once you have carefully transferred it from carrier to model I use the tracing paper supplied to burnish it even further so no sticky residue is showing & the decal is 100 % flat with no air bubbles . Done ! Very Happy

2 . The decal solvents work for wet transfers , I use two types , Mr Mark softener & Micro Set & Sol which is a two part system . Important check with a spare unused decal for a test first on a scrap model with the various solutions. The solutions soften the decal carrier but can react in dissolving some decals all together . When the decals are soft they can even adhere to surfaces like Zimmerit , they also have adhesives that help the decal hold better on the model , never use decal softener on dry transfers .

3 . When you apply chipping you may want to add the rust streaks from them , to do this use some rust coloured oil paint , you can vary the colour depending on the age of the chip & the depth of it , apply a small dot . Let it settle for 5 minutes then using a clean flat brush dampened in white spirit draw the brush down lightly in the direction of the streak , this will feather the effect & I would repeat until you get the subtelty you require .

4 . Yes for dot filters before , after the decals & before the weathering I usually seal the model with a coat of varnish to protect the decals & the paint finish from the weathering process .

I would recommend Mig Jimenez book FAQ for armour if you can still find a copy , it covers all of the above questions & lots , lots more . A great handbook for effects , washes , filters , rust stains , rain marks , fading & of course pigments .

I hope this helps Very Happy

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