Making Boot-Prints on AFVs
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Making Boot-Prints on AFVs
Hello everybody,
I've been wanting to create some dusty/dirty boot-prints on my models for a while - but being notoriously tight-fisted I wasn't prepared to buy commercially available boot-print making sets. So I came up with DBPM MK1 (Dierk's Boot Print Mould)
I used the aluminium tub from a tea-light and filled it with J.B. Weld, which is a two-component adhesive that dries very hard, but you can use filler, putty and probably plaster as well. The main reasons why I used J.B. Weld is A) I had some and B) I needed something that would be very hard when cured, as I was also making a mould so I could fabricate headlight shells from foil for a kit I'm working on.
Once the stuff had started to cure, but was still malleable, I used some resin boots from a PlusModel figure, covered them in baby powder, so the adhesive wouldn't adhere and pushed them into the tub:
I left it over night to make sure the medium had hardened properly, put some baby powder into the boot-shaped depressions, filled them with silicone and left it to cure for a good 12 hours:
The first one I pulled from the mould had failed, but the second one wasn't too bad. I stuck a needle in it, dipped it in some earth coloured pigment, so it would show against the white silicone:
And bunged a print on my, as yet unpainted, Stuart turret:
Next I dipped it into a tub of chalky pigment and took it for a walk on my old Tamiya KV-1 - I know they're not going anywhere, but it was for demonstration porpoises only:
Not quite perfect yet, but the principle seems to work. Hope you find the idea useful.
Dierk
I've been wanting to create some dusty/dirty boot-prints on my models for a while - but being notoriously tight-fisted I wasn't prepared to buy commercially available boot-print making sets. So I came up with DBPM MK1 (Dierk's Boot Print Mould)
I used the aluminium tub from a tea-light and filled it with J.B. Weld, which is a two-component adhesive that dries very hard, but you can use filler, putty and probably plaster as well. The main reasons why I used J.B. Weld is A) I had some and B) I needed something that would be very hard when cured, as I was also making a mould so I could fabricate headlight shells from foil for a kit I'm working on.
Once the stuff had started to cure, but was still malleable, I used some resin boots from a PlusModel figure, covered them in baby powder, so the adhesive wouldn't adhere and pushed them into the tub:
I left it over night to make sure the medium had hardened properly, put some baby powder into the boot-shaped depressions, filled them with silicone and left it to cure for a good 12 hours:
The first one I pulled from the mould had failed, but the second one wasn't too bad. I stuck a needle in it, dipped it in some earth coloured pigment, so it would show against the white silicone:
And bunged a print on my, as yet unpainted, Stuart turret:
Next I dipped it into a tub of chalky pigment and took it for a walk on my old Tamiya KV-1 - I know they're not going anywhere, but it was for demonstration porpoises only:
Not quite perfect yet, but the principle seems to work. Hope you find the idea useful.
Dierk
dierk- Be nice to me I am new
- Posts : 46
Join date : 2012-02-11
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