Moving Small PE

Not sure if this is a Top Tip or not, but I do know it works for me. I kind of struggle placing small PE where it needs to go as I have fingers like small sausages. I have the tweezers that come to the needle points, but for some reason they seem to usually twist at the tip just as I am about to place the part. So I came up with the following.....



A couple of toothpicks with what I know as Blue Tac (comes in yellow also!) on the end. Blue Tac is made to hang posters and things on your walls so that they can be removed later without leaving a hole. I don't know if it is available in other countries or what the name would be but I usually find it at a hardware store, a crafts store, etc.

The nice thing is that it is a low tack material similar in consistency to chewed gum that will hold your PE firmly enough to put the end of a PE wingnut into the hole in a PE tool bracket, but will release easily. Usually I remove it from the part with a slight twist, and if it leaves any of itself on the part you just dab it with the tack on your toothpick and it will come right up. I have even let go of the toothpick and let gravity twist it off for me if the piece seemed to need to be left alone.

I have also used a flattened piece of it to hold PE parts together while I super glued them. I don't think that super glue sticks to it, at least it never has on my parts.

Hope someone finds this useful.... I know it works for me...
Bob

works for me too.............i came up with a similar solution a while back when trying to work out how to place the turn signals on the painted wings (fenders) of a 1/24 lotus 7

reminds me..................must get some new blutac.....after 4 years hard work, my lump of it is really losing its 'stickiness'

Beowulf..... I just started using this and now I don't know how I worked without it before. Sure can get into places my fat fingers can't. I also like that I can shave a toothpick down to whatever size I need...

Bob

Bob, this is definitely a top tip as far as I'm concerned. For some reason small bits of PE like to 'spring' out of the end of my tweezers just as I'm about to put them in place. Uurrggghhh!!!

I also like the idea of using a flattened piece of Blue Tac as a means of gently holding small or even larger items in one place while glue dries. You could even use this to hold small items in one spot while they are airbrushed. I think I need to get some Blue Tac.

Brilliant idea, thanks!
JT

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Hi Bob;


..... Good tip......... I have been doing a similar thing with Mico Liquid Tape.
With it you can build complete Assemblies to test fit the parts.

..... Bluetac, & Plato putty, (Silly putty), are great for holding parts to be
painted. Also, like you said, you can make a custom tool out of a wooden
Shis-Kabob skier, and put some Bluetac on the end.

Mike
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Mike,

Ok, I have to plead ignorance here.... what is Mico Liquid Tape? And once you get stuff "taped" together how do you glue it?

There are so many products out there that people use for modeling applications that I am sure someone could write a book on just the products and their uses....

Thanks in advance for the info...
Bob

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Hi Bob;

..... You are right about the number of products out there,
it does get confusing.

...............................MICRO Magic Mask ..................

..... Is a medium used to mask canopies. You paint the glass, (Plexiglas), portion
of the canopies. Then paint the canopy frame the color, or colors that you wish to
use. Magic Mask makes a thin rubber like coating. After waiting at less 24 hours
for the paint to dry, and cure, carefully peel the masking agent off of the canopy.

..... Note: For better looking canopies, always paint the out side frame, and the
inside of the canopies frame. That way, when people look at your cockpit, and
glance across to the opposite side, the canopies is painted; and it looks more
realistic.

...... Note: Magic Mask can be used for other purposes. Like masking areas that
you do not want to get painted
..... Armor builders us it to simulate chipped paint, and wear marks. You can also
do this on aircraft models.
............................. Method of Application

.....When you paint your model with the primmer coat..... try to use a color
that is close to the factory primmer color. If this is not possible, you will
have to paint small areas, where you what the chips, of scuff mark to
be, with the factory primmer paint equivalent.
.....After the primmer coat of paint is dry...... use a tooth pick and place small
blobs of Magic Mask where you want the wear, shuff, and chipped paint to
appear. Look at your reference, and try to make realistic looking blobs.
..... Paint your top coat as normal. Disregard the masking agent, and paint
over it. After all layers of paint have been applied, and dry, carefully peel
the masking agent off of the model. They should not be hard to find,
just look for the nasty looking areas.
..... Weather you model as normal.

........................... MICRO Liquid Tape

.....Is a Latex, Rubber like medium. It has strong holding abilities, and
it NEVER DRIES. You can use it to put together complex assemblies,
and sub assemblies. Like a 1/35 scale 40mm gun. Why...... do
this. To check the fit of the parts, and look for trouble areas.
..... You can use it in SMALL AMOUNTS to temporally hold parts to
be glued...... Like PE.
..... You can use it to hold open the canopy of your aircraft. Then later
take it off and close the canopy.
..... Armor builders can use it to hold there hatches closed while they
paint there model............ etc.

..... Liquid Tape is water soluble. To remove it.... take the parts apart
and wash with warm soapy water.


Mike
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Mike,

Thanks for the explanation on the liquid tape. I might just have to see about finding some as it does sound kind of useful.

As for the liquid masking..... I have used it but I don't any more. I have found a bit of water based paint mixed in with a white glue (commonly known as Elmer's Glue in the US anyway) does the job for me a lot easier. The color lets me see the coverage and white glue peels right off with a toothpick. If needed I can always hit it with a second coat to ensure coverage.

I am located between Olympia, Washington and Portland, Oregon out in a broad expanse of no hobby shops and Michael's doesn't carry much in the way of hobby supplies. So for a lot of it I have to make my own or order it.... and usually when I think about it I need it NOW! That is why I end up finding my own ways of doing stuff....

Later, Bob